Hemsedal
Big-mountain vibes in Norway with long groomers, playful parks, and easy family days.
What to expect at Hemsedal
Hemsedal is nicknamed the 'Scandinavian Alps' because the peaks around the resort are unusually dramatic for Norway, the Skogshorn and Røggjin rise sharply out of the ski area at 1,497 m. Skiing is 44 km of piste but the resort's real currency is off-piste, with north-facing bowls that stay cold and dry from December to May. Hemsedal is where the Norwegian freeride and freestyle scene sharpens its teeth. The village is small, quiet and family-friendly by day, and while the après is louder than at Trysil it is nothing like the Alps. The drive from Oslo is three and a half hours through classic Norwegian upland scenery.
Hemsedal on film
Skiing and staying in Hemsedal
Hemsedal Ski Resort
Hemsedal, often dubbed the "Scandinavian Alps", is nestled in Norway's Hallingdal valley, conveniently located between Oslo and Bergen. The resort features three distinct peaks, Totten (1,450m), Hamaren (1,350m), and Roni (1,250m), which collectively offer an impressive 810m of vertical drop. This dramatic mountain landscape gives the resort a distinctly Alpine feel, attracting skiers and snowboarders from across Scandinavia and beyond. Condé Nast Traveller's 2025 Readers' Choice Awards even recognised Hemsedal as one of Europe's top ten ski resorts, highlighting its vibrant and energetic atmosphere.
The ski area comprises approximately 50km of meticulously groomed runs spread across 51 marked pistes. The terrain is notably varied, catering to all abilities. Beginners can enjoy a green run that extends from the 1,450m summit all the way to the base, while intermediates will find sweeping blue and red runs across all three peaks. For advanced skiers, the steep black runs off Totten have previously hosted World Cup events. The resort is also a hub for freestyle skiing, boasting terrain parks consistently ranked among Scandinavia's best, making it a popular spot for snowboarding photography. With extensive snowmaking capabilities and its northerly latitude, Hemsedal typically enjoys a long season, running from early December to early May, backed by SkiStar's Alpine Snow Guarantee for reliable conditions.
Skiing and Snowboarding in Hemsedal
Hemsedal offers a distinctive skiing and snowboarding experience with wide, well-groomed pistes and a straightforward mountain layout. All runs conveniently converge at a single base area, ensuring easy navigation. From the summits, panoramic views encompass rugged peaks, snow-covered fells, and dense forests. The resort is serviced by 22 lifts, including a high-speed six-seater and two high-speed quads, making it efficient to explore the terrain without feeling overwhelmed.
Each of the three peaks provides a unique character. Totten, the highest point, is home to the more challenging terrain. Tinden is favoured by intermediates for its flowing red and blue runs, while Roni acts as a central connector for the ski area. Additionally, the separate Solheisen area in Grøndalen, located approximately 12km up the valley and accessible with the same ski pass, offers quieter slopes and excellent off-piste opportunities for those seeking a change of pace.
For Beginners and Intermediates
Hemsedal is an excellent destination for those new to skiing. The base area features one of Norway's largest dedicated beginner zones, complete with gentle lifts and nursery slopes, providing ample space for new skiers of all ages to gain confidence away from faster traffic. Once comfortable, beginners can experience the satisfaction of skiing from the very top of the mountain via a green run that descends from the Totten summit to the base. The progression to easy blue runs is smooth, with wide, visible pistes making it simple to gradually increase speed. Solheisen is also recommended for newer skiers, offering a relaxed atmosphere and quieter slopes, particularly on weekends.
Intermediate skiers will discover a wealth of suitable terrain across all three peaks. The blues and reds on Tinden are flowing and meticulously maintained, with the 4km blue run down to Hemsedal Sentrum providing a pleasant end to the day. As confidence grows, the red runs off Totten and those connecting the peaks offer more varied terrain, including welcome steeper sections. Hemsedal's ski area is compact enough for easy lapping of favourite runs, yet diverse enough to maintain interest throughout a week. Confident intermediates might also enjoy the marked ski routes, which blend groomed pistes with ungroomed sections, ideal for experiencing softer snow without committing to full off-piste conditions.
Advanced and Expert Skiing
Despite a seemingly modest piste map, Hemsedal offers genuinely demanding terrain for experienced skiers. The Tottenløypa and Sahaugløypa black runs are steep, sustained, and highly satisfying, with the latter also floodlit for a unique night skiing experience. Additional steep pitches are scattered across Totten and Tinden, rewarding those who venture beyond the main routes.
The off-piste opportunities are particularly compelling in Hemsedal. The terrain around all three peaks is accessible and forgiving, making it an excellent choice for skiers transitioning from groomed runs to powder. For more experienced individuals, the backcountry areas above and surrounding the resort open up extensive ski touring possibilities, for which hiring a local guide is highly recommended. When conditions permit, heli-skiing is also available from the surrounding high peaks.
Hemsedal in winter
Hemsedal piste map
The official Hemsedal piste map showing every run, lift and sector. Zoom in for detail or open it full screen.
Scroll or pinch to zoom, drag to pan.
View and download Hemsedal ski map ↗Getting to Hemsedal
- Oslo (OSL)3 h 15 min
- Bergen (BGO)4 h 15 min
Drive times are estimates based on typical winter road conditions. Book transfers in advance during peak Saturday changeovers.
Hemsedal FAQs
- Is Hemsedal good for beginners?
- Hemsedal boasts one of Norway's largest dedicated beginner areas at the base, equipped with gentle lifts, a snow play zone, and qualified instructors who teach in English. A green run extends from the summit of Totten to the base, allowing beginners to experience top-to-bottom skiing. The terrain is forgiving, slopes are wide, and the atmosphere is welcoming. Solheisen, covered by the same lift pass, also provides quieter pistes suitable for learning.
- How does Hemsedal compare to Alpine resorts?
- Hemsedal is often referred to as the Scandinavian Alps due to its 810m vertical drop and steep mountain profile, which feels more Alpine than most Scandinavian resorts. While its total piste length, around 50km, is less than major Alpine areas, the terrain is varied, snow quality is excellent, and the absence of large crowds, especially midweek, often allows for more runs per day than in busier resorts.
- Is the snow reliable in Hemsedal?
- Yes, snow reliability in Hemsedal is excellent. Its northerly latitude and high altitude, up to 1,450m, ensure consistently cold temperatures throughout the season, which typically runs from early December to early May. Natural snowfall is generally good, supplemented by SkiStar's extensive snowmaking system covering a significant portion of the slopes. The resort also offers a snow guarantee, committing to adequate coverage during the core season.
- Is Hemsedal expensive?
- Norway is generally more expensive than many Alpine destinations, and Hemsedal is no exception, particularly for dining and drinks. However, self-catering in a cabin or apartment can help manage costs, and local supermarkets are well stocked. Ski passes and lessons are competitively priced compared to major French or Swiss resorts.
- What is the après-ski like in Hemsedal?
- The après-ski scene in Hemsedal varies depending on the day. Midweek evenings are typically quiet and relaxed, ideal for families or those seeking an early night. However, at weekends, Hemsedal transforms. Norwegian visitors from Oslo and Bergen flock to the resort for both skiing and nightlife, making bars, clubs, and slope-side venues very lively. Stavkroa is known as the epicentre of the weekend party, with several nightclubs and live music venues operating late into the night, creating one of Scandinavia's most vibrant après-ski atmospheres.
Resort figures are checked against official resort sources each season. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.
