Skidorter i Slovakia

Slovak skiing is centred on the High and Low Tatras, the highest range in the Carpathians, and the country's flagship is Jasná on Chopok in the Low Tatras. It is a genuinely good mountain: modern gondolas and chairlifts on both the north and south sides of the ridge, over 40 km of piste, and north facing terrain that holds cold snow well into spring. The freeride from the Chopok summit into the north side bowls is the most serious lift accessed off piste in central Europe and the reason experienced skiers come.

In the High Tatras, Tatranská Lomnica and Štrbské Pleso are smaller but dramatic, with the Lomnický štít cable car climbing to 2,634 m and a steep, narrow descent from the Skalnaté pleso saddle. The range is a national park with tight restrictions, and weather closes the upper lifts frequently. Elsewhere, Donovaly and Vrátna serve families and weekenders from Bratislava and Žilina.

Prices remain well below the Alps for a comparable standard of lift, which is the country's main argument. Off the slopes, the thermal water is the thing: Bešeňová, Tatralandia and the aquapark complexes around Liptovský Mikuláš are large and open into the evening. Ski touring in the Low Tatras is well developed, cross country trails run at Štrbské Pleso, which hosts World Cup nordic events, and the caves and castles of the Liptov region give a rest day something to do.

Slovak mountain food is the sheep dairy tradition of the Carpathians. Bryndzové halušky, small potato dumplings with sharp sheep's cheese and crisp bacon on top, is the national dish and the standard order after a cold morning. Bryndza itself, the soft ewe's milk cheese, is protected by origin rules, and žinčica, the whey drink served alongside, is an acquired taste that shepherds swear by.

Beyond that, kapustnica, a sour cabbage soup with sausage, mushrooms and sometimes prunes, is the winter soup and is eaten at Christmas across the country. Grilled klobása sausage, pirohy dumplings and roast duck with lokše potato pancakes fill out the menu, and the salaš, a traditional shepherd's inn, is where all of it tastes best. Portions are large and the bill is small.

Slivovica, plum brandy, and borovička, a juniper spirit closer to gin, are the mountain drinks, usually served warmed in winter. Slovak beer, Zlatý Bažant and the smaller craft brewers, is good and cheap, and the wine from the Small Carpathians in the west is worth a look. Après ski at Jasná has grown around the base areas but remains modest, and the traditional evening is a salaš, a folk band and too much halušky.

Štrbské Pleso in the High Tatras hosted the Nordic World Ski Championships in 1970, the first time the event was held outside Scandinavia and central Europe's traditional venues, and the ski jumps built for it still stand above the lake. The venue continues to host World Cup cross country and biathlon events.

Slovak skiing's modern era owes a lot to the redevelopment of Jasná after 2000, when substantial private investment replaced the ageing communist era lift stock with modern gondolas and connected the two sides of Chopok. The result put Slovakia on the map for freeriders and hosted Alpine World Cup women's races in 2016 and 2021, with Petra Vlhová's overall World Cup title in 2020/21 and her Olympic slalom gold in 2022 giving the country its first genuine alpine superstar.

The High Tatras have a long mountaineering heritage predating the resorts, with Slovak and Polish climbers using the range as a training ground since the nineteenth century, and the mountain rescue service, Horská záchranná služba, is one of the oldest organised rescue bodies in central Europe. A catastrophic windstorm in 2004 flattened large areas of Tatra forest, and the regrowth is still visible from the lifts.